When I trailered my H some 15 years back, I used the drawbar on the rear, the axle housing would be my next choice.
On the front I had these Kent-Moore chain links which are really used for lifting/pulling automotive engines. It is a diamond shaped piece of steel plate approx 3/8" thick with two holes in it. Diamond-piece is bent approx 30 degrees, one hole has a large chain link thru it. So, I bolted these to the frame rails each side and then used my chains and binders from there.
Grade 8s don't concern me (over the choice for Gr 5) as much as the fact that they're good and tight. Generally tight bolts don't break and loose ones are just a matter of time. I would use extreme caution with using any eyebolt, even with a shoulder, unless you are positive it will be loaded only axially. A swivelling hoist ring would probably be "best practice" in industrial rigging practice but not sure how the DOT feels about this.
Last piece of advice is when using any nylon straps from 2" to 4" wide is to make sure they don't/can't contact any sharp edges, even when vibrating in the wind. A nylon strap, while extremely strong, will get incrementally cut faster than you can believe it, cordura sleeves are available although a number of other things can substitute, old carpet scraps are a favorite, old jeans, old bath mats, kevlar gloves, you get the idea.
This post was edited by mattofvinings at 09:11:19 07/13/09 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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