As for changing the hydraulic switching selector, I believe you can remove the two bolts at the top of the valve and swap out the shafts. That is alot easier than removing the whole directional valve and replacing it with the longer setup. The 450, and quite probably the 350, have holes in the sheetmetal cowl for rotating the selector. Get a hole saw or a punch that the electricians use for making the hole. A big step drill would work too.
Get another outlet bracket from a salvage yard. Save yourself a couple of hours of bending and drilling. And you won't have to worry about crappy looks.
I have four tractors with the 2.5" x 8" horizontal cylinder used mostly for draft control on a land plow. They are all piped directly from the directional valve and attached aluminum lever with ball end.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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