Mark, I used the bearing-splitter/puller method, (like in MN Scott's link) and it worked OK but some cautions...
First, the puller has to be big enough that the jaws sit on the splitter 'square'.
Then, while the jaws grab the splitter, the 'point' of the puller has to sit on something. I say this because in the process, I discovered that the end of my crank was both recessed, and threaded. (In my first look, it was so full of dirt and chaff that I couldn't see that). I didn't want to booger-up those threads. Scott's picture shows the point going through the pulley, but I don't know what it is leaning on. You have to decide where the point is going to lean. I solved it by running a bolt of sufficient length through the pulley and into those threads so it sat solidly, (the bolt head was a size that it would fit through the pulley as the pulley came off over it- the pulley is maybe 3+ inches long). Then, to keep the point of the puller from 'walking' around the top of the bolt, I drilled a 'divot' in the center of the bolt head, for the point to sit in.
Then I heated the pulley, but I had to crank on the ratchet WAY more than I thought prudent, as the pulley was REALLY stuck on the crank. Finally, with a LOUD *crack* (I thought I broke something) it started to move, and once it was 'broke' free, came off pretty easy after that.
All that said, the hydraulic method to get it off would be the way I'd go next time. My method really messed with my head for awhile trying to get it all right. I used hydraulics to get it back on, (and you have to think about possible damage to the thrust bearing on the crank depending on how you do it) but by then I had a clean crank and inner bore of the pulley, I had heated the pulley to 200 degrees in the oven when my wife wasn't home, and it slid on HUGELY more easily than it came off.
Two last things- if you can get a flashlight on your pulley- it has a thickened inner diameter. Make sure any 'pulling' effort stays on the thickened part, not the pulley lip, or it might crack.
Don't forget to look where the seal sits on the pulley. If it's worn, you'll need a speedi-sleeve.
Good luck!
This post was edited by P and R Pete at 06:36:21 08/01/09.
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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