JBinNY, Nice set of photos. Here is what I have deduced from them:
1. The tractor is a model 350. Serial number 4727 makes it a 1957. The "C-175" cast into the engine block is further confirmation, as this denotes the 175 CID engine the 350"s were built with. Also, there are remnants of a starter button on the instrument panel. 300"s had just a key switch.
2. 444 hood panels have been put on it. Proof positive of this is that there is no louver on the left side panel above the air cleaner where the air would be drawn in. This may be one reason why wire mesh was stuffed into the carburetor air intake (to act as an "air cleaner"), which is what the opening in the side of the carburetor is. More on that later.
3. The engine has a down exhaust manifold. The elbow the exhaust pipe would connect to has been removed and a home made flange and elbow installed in its place to mount a vertical muffler.
4. The electrical system has been changed from 6 to 12 volts, but it has been completely cobbled up. If you send a message to me via email, I will send you the original 6 volt diagram, and give you some pointers on keeping it a 12 volt. That would be your best bet at this point. My email is open.
5. As I stated before, the opening in the side of the carburetor is the air intake. There is supposed to be a hose that connects between this and the air cleaner pipe. I got one last year from Case IH for $18 or $20. You need to get the engine running before worrying about that hose just yet. As I mentioned before, there is no louver in the hood panel for the air inlet at the top of the air cleaner to draw air from. If I were you, I would take that hood panel off and check and see if the steel air baffle that is supposed to seal the inlet pipe to the hood is there. My guess would be that it is gone, which in your case is probably OK. If it seems like there would be enough space between the air inlet and the hood for air to get drawn in with the hood on, in order to get it sold, I think I would just get a piece of coarse screen at a hardware store to form over the inlet pipe to keep the big pieces of debris from getting sucked into it and let it go at that. I would first take the air cleaner assembly right off the tractor, thoroughly flush it out with mineral spirits or kerosene, reinstall it, and fill the oil cup to the oil level line on the cup with motor oil (10w-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, or 30W is OK).
Email me and I"ll give you some suggestions on getting it running when I send you the wiring diagram.
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Today's Featured Article - When Push Comes to Shove - by Dave Patterson. When I was a “kid” (still am to a deree) about two I guess, my parents couldn’t find me one day. They were horrified (we lived by the railroad), my mother thought the worst: "He’s been run over by a train, he’s gone forever!" Where did they find me? Perched up on the seat of the tractor. I’d probably plowed about 3000 acres (in my head anyway) by the time they found me. This is where my love for tractors started and has only gotten worse in my tender 50 yrs on this “green planet”. I’m par
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