Both sides clean, stub of shaft and inside of pulley. You don't want to remove any metal so clean thoroughly but not too aggressively. Scotchbrite pads are easy on the shaft and do the job well. Something a like a battery terminal brush inside the pulley would work. Wipe the surfaces off well or use something like brake cleaner to get any dust and grit off before a light lube on the shaft, not the pulley, more about that in a sec.
When that's done, give the missus some money and send her to the county seat with a shopping list including things like relative bearing grease, a metric Crescent Phillips-head screwdriver, and five gallons of sailboat fuel, anything that will keep her there for a while.
Wrap your very clean pulley loosely in foil and put it in the oven for a half-hour at about 250-300 degrees. (There will be some discussion about how hot, most of which is about not ruining the front seal. Hotter is better, but at 300 or so the mass of the crank will absorb enough of the heat from the pulley that it won't get over 200, and the seal will certainly stand that much.) Clean means that your next batch of coolies won't cause your kitchen to smell like your shop. Foil so that you don't get any residue of solvents or oil on the bride's oven mitts as you RUN to the waiting crankshaft with the hot pulley. Needless to say, this is not a job for the microwave. (I only mention that because somebody -- not me -- tried it.)
It will slip right onto the shaft. In case it doesn't, I'd recommend a little advance work. The center of the crank has a threaded hole in it. I can't recall whether it's even coarse or fine, but it's a 1/2" or 5/8" thread. Clean that hole and the threads well and dab a little lube in there, too. You want to have a bolt, and maybe two (of different lengths) in that thread, a wrench to fit them, and some washers handy by. Your bolt(s) need to be long enough to pass through the front of the pulley and engage the thread, but short enough that you can draw the pulley all the way on without bottoming out in the hole. Have a washer slipped over each bolt, poke whichever one will work through the front of the still hot pulley and finish drawing it on. Before heating it look the pulley over and you'll see a shoulder in there, just so you're aware that, when it's fully seated, the end of the shaft will NOT be flush with the inside of the hole where the crank fits through. If your shorter bolt doesn't draw it all the way on, remove it and clap a few more washers under the head.
This will save beating it on and the stress on the thrust faces of your bearings. A little light tapping won't hurt anything (a few smart blows with something like a 2-lb, rubber-faced deadblow won't hurt anything), but a soft-face hammer is definitely in order, as a) the soft face will give before the bearings would be damaged and b) it's not hard to chip or break the lugs that hold the pins on your crank.
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