Back in the '50s & '60s we had a SM that had fluid in the tires. We also ran duals on this tractor which were original cast iorn rims. In the spring we woould remove the inside wheel & put the dual on with the concave in then put the original wheel back on. For cultivating we used a 448 cultivator on this tractor so the procedure was reversed. Then in the summer the duals were put back on to pack silage. In the fall the riaght side dual was removed for plowing.
To aid moving the wheels on & off the tractor we had a small strip of metal that had rollers in it that slipped between the wheel & axle and when things went righ the wheel was suppose to "roll" off the axle. Didn't always work that way.
Usually took two men to do the job but I have done it myself. Main thing once the wheel was on off the tractor was to keep it balanced with the weight slightyl towards you. We did this on concrete & a guy could roll the tire & wheel fairly easy. If for some reason it got away from you, you wanted to get out of it's way & let it fall. Once on the floor it took a tractor & loader to get it back up. I was 13 or 14 the first time I ever did changed them by myself & only had one wheel get away from me. Hate to think how many times I changed those wheels around. Little wonder I have back problems today.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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