If you can find a bottle of Mapp gas (HD or Lowe's or a good True Value type store), it's a good bit hotter than propane, but will fit up to and work on a regualr propane torch head.
My usual approach is to heat the bolt to a low red. If the surrounding area heats up, so much the better. The point is to let the expansion that goes with the heat break up the rust bonding the threads. Let it cool until you can stand to touch it for a second or two. At that point I apply a generous dose of my favorite pnetrating lubricant. It nned s to cool some to avoid quenching and radically changitn the temper of everything. Hot/good and warm will draw the fluid in as it cools without having the effec tof queching a hot bolt. It might take a couple of shots like that.
When I think I have a good chance, I do two things before trying to back it out. First, I heat around it at a little distance. That's where the extra heat of the Mapp comes in handy. The extra heat soaks into the surrounding metal, expanding the female thread, but requires working quickly. When the surrounding area is hot, I always try to give a little nudge toward actually TIGHTENING the bolt first, then, put the counterclockwise torque to it. Not Gare-on-teed, but it's worked like a charm for me many times.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Cockshutt Tractor - by Danny Bowes (Dsl). The son of a very successful Toronto and Brantford, Ontario merchant, and himself quite an entreprenuer, James G. Cockshutt opened a business called the Brantford Plow Works in 1877. In 1882, the business was incorporated to become the Cockshutt Plow Company. Along with quality built equipment, expedious demand and expansion made Cockshutt Plow Works the leader in the tillage tools sector of the farm equipment industry by the 1920's.
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