Two ignition things possibly connected. If the advance mechanism in the distributor is rusty, or broken, it will run as noted. It is simple inside, To test quickly, but not for sure, rotate the rotor CW with your fingers, it should move with modest force. It should rotate 15 degrees or so then spring back. If it does not, or will rotate 15 degrees either way and stays there it needs attention under the breaker plate. Second thing: if there is noticeable play in the rotor shaft (sideways in any direction, not in the direction the rotor is pushed on) it needs to be rebuilt. Play here results in wild timing changes, and missing. If there is a intake manifold leak, or a really bad intake valve guide, the engine will also miss under idle conditions. Use propane from a small torch with the tip removed to find a leak like that (do it outside, use a small opening on the propane knob, and move the propane around the manifold and manifold gasket at the head to ad fuel to the leak. It will quit missing as soon as the leak gets fuel. If this is unsuccessful, se which cylinder is missing, by pulling one plug wire off at a time (insulated pliers are a must) if you find it, change plug location, and see if the miss follows the plug. If so put in new plugs. If it doesn't, check the valve adjustment. .020" cold all valves. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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