Drivetrain is the same. Whats is different follows. Hydraulic pump and distributor, lines to hydraulic pump, some parts of throttle control, hood sides, radiator shrould, some hand crank parts, air cleaner, conections and mounting, frame rails and engine mount spacer blocks, fuel tank, fuel line, original type oil pressure gage, 12 volt system, choke cable, starter, may have forgot something. If you just want function the fuel tank will work fine by pluging fuel return port and putting a bowl in other, hoods work after cutting a hole for exhaust pipe, frame rails will work, doesn't matter about hand crank parts if not used, choke cable may or may not reach carburetor, fan shrould will be shorter but will work, 12 volt system and starter will work, generator pulley and mount from gas is needed or make a mount, need the throttle rod from governor to throttle lever near air cleaner. hole rod goes in is bigger on a diesel but can be modified, more notches are needed at throttle lever. If it has power steering different mounts are needed. Clutch and flywheel will work. Water pump from diesel will work, but a complete gas engine with most parts along with hydraulic pump is needed. Unless you have a good engine already it may be better to sell the diesel and purchase a complete gas tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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