Sounds good. I've pulled mine with an engine hoist so that I can pull them right away to do whatever needed doing. What you might want to do, unless you're really set up and your chain fall is on a trolley, is position it or the tractor so that the final pulls away just a few inches, 3 or 4, once you unbolt it. That's still close enough that you can swing it back in to remount it without too much trouble, and you can also lay it down on blocks (being careful to protect the pan) if you have to have it steady for any beating or pulling to replace the pin.
There is a thread just above or below this one about jacking a Super A. The jack points are obvious but, especially in this case, I favor Hugh's suggestion, if your tractor has the drawbar on it, of jacking it under the transmission and then letting it down a little to rest on blocking under the drawbar. It removes the possibility of hitting your jack with the final drive when you go to turn it around -- that could get nasty. You could jack and block both sides in that fashion, too, so you can run the tractor with the tires off the ground to adjust the brakes up evenly.
And, for sure, having both brakes working evenly is an excellent idea if you're going to be using them in road gear.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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