The gear is on a tapered spline at the top of the shaft and can often be a stinker to get to break free. Here's how I do it:
1 - Jack the front wheels off the ground. (Jack beneath the clutch housing then crib for safety!)
2 - Remove the lower bolster/front wheel assembly by undoing the 4 bolts thru the the mating flanges. Be sure to note the position of the extended head stop bolt - this bolt must be reassembled in the same location!
(Removing the mass of the bolster/front wheel assembly from the pivot shaft greatly enhances the effectiveness of the hammer blows that will follow...)
3 - Remove the castle nut from the top of the pivot shaft, turn it over and thread it back on until it is just flush with the top of the shaft. This is to prevent mushrooming the pivot shaft threads in the next step.
4 - Lay a thin scrap of brass, copper, aluminum or what have you on top of the pivot shaft to protect the nut/threads, then give it a lick with the biggest hammer you've got. With luck the shaft will pop free of the gear - the nut will keep it from dropping out of the upper bolster.
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Today's Featured Article - Uncle Cecil's Super A Lives Again - by Mike Purcell. A week or so out of most of my childhood summers was often spent with my Uncle Cecil and Aunt Sissie in the small East Texas town of Maydelle on their 80 acre farm. Some of my fondest memories of these visits are those of learning to drive a tractor at the helm of Uncle Cecil’s 1948 Farmall Super A. Uncle Cecil was the second owner of this wonderful little tractor, but it was almost as though he had adopted an infant. The original owner was a man from Minnesota who bought her from a local dea
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