Those Ford solenoids have the little S activation terminal which activates the solenoid (closes internal contactor between the 2 big posts) and another little I terminal whcih is hot ONLY during solenolid activation that can be used to by pass any ballast resistance.......I take it the wire down from key/switch goes to the solenoids little S terminal?????????
It requires a frame ground return current conenction via its mounting attachment to the starter or tractor frame. Insure the solenoids metal mounting/frame has a good ground !!!!!!!!!
The "click" makes me think the solenoid is activating BUTTTTTTTTT a voltmeter on the starter (iffffff STARTER ISNT SHORTED) should show voltage when the solenoid is activated?????? The starter sure cant crank unless good battery voltage is impresed upon its input strap..
What happens when you use a lil jumper and jump direct to the solenoids little S terminal from the input side of the solenoid where the big battery cables attaches???????????????????? IFFFFFFF she starts then but NOT when the key switch sends hot voltage to the same litle S terminal I SUSPECT A KEY/SWITCH PROBLEM or the wire down from it.
The fact that a direct high current jump to the starter makes her crank tells me the starter is okay so it must be a solenoid problem OR A LOOSE OR CARBONED CONNECTION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The test to see if manual application (from say the big battery cables where it atatches to solenoid) of voltage to the solenoids little S terminal makes her work different from the key/switch sending voltage to the little S terminal WOULD BE MY FIRST TEST. If that starts her but NOT the key Id be looking for a bad key/switch such as internal carbon or looseness or resistance.
To be safe, I would remove, clean n wire brush n reattach the big cables at the solenoid (both sides) n starter stud.
MAKE SURE SHES IN NEUTRAL N KEY OFF N BRAKES LOCKED WHEN YOU MESS WITH THE SOLENOID
Check grounds,,,,,,,,,cables n connections on solenoid and starter,,,,,,,,key/switch (by jump by pass direct to S)
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