That's a BIG question! In Hs and Ms, the changes fairly paralleled each other. The Super A never quit evolving from the the day they introduced it. In general, The Supers had larger displacement (in the same basic block) than the regulars, things like hydraulics were added (a) or upgraded (H & M)
In the specific case of the Cs . . . As built, the C had a 113 cu.in. motor, the SuperC a 123. Over time, replacement pistons and sleeves with larger displacement were used in overhauls and many Cs running around are 123s, and Supers at about 133. The Touch Control Hydraulics were optional on the C, but a lot of them had it. It was standard on the SuperC. The C was a basic thermosiphon cooling system, without thermostat or water pump. The SuperC's 123 had a taller, pressurized radiator and was equipped with thermostat and water pump. (Water pumps, though not original, can be bolted right into a C, and many have been added, so it's not a distinguishing feature.) The taller radiator leads to one of the differences that can be observed on tractors with the Touch Control - on a C, there is very little clearance between the underside of the fuel tank and the top of the T/C unit. On the SuperC it's on the order of 2-1/2" or more - one needn't stoop far to easily see plenty of daylight between them. There were differences in the castings that had to do with mounting the Fast-Hitch and a few odd things like that between them as well.
When shopping, one of the easiest distinctions to make is that the C has pedals that are essentially straight. The pedals on the SuperC develop an arc back toward the operator about two-thirds of the way up between the deck and the pedal pads.
I know nothing about the seller or any of the conversation he's had with your friend, and will not conclude anything about why he claims it's a SuperC. Some folks will make that claim because it has pistons and sleeves for a 123 in what is otherwise a C chassis. But then, when my uncle sent my BN out to a high school shop years ago, it came back with C decals on it because they couldn't find those for a BN.
For a good general reference that addresses your full question, The Originality Guide-Farmall Letter Series Tractors by Guy Fay and Andy Kraushaar is kind of a bible on those questions, and a handsome book to have. Amazon it.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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