Posted by ScottyHOMEy on October 20, 2009 at 07:49:52 from (71.241.219.155):
In Reply to: Engine advice posted by Mark W. on October 20, 2009 at 07:05:31:
Good question!
I'd get it on a stand and give it a basic going over. Pull the plugs and the valve cover, and turn the engine with a crank and check valve clearance and operation. Scrape and wipe up any congealed crud up in there. Do your best to get any gritty stuff away, then finish with a parts brush and kerosene, and let your solvent run down to the pan. A little flush of kerosene down over the push rods to help flush any loose crud off that might have washed down to the cam would be a good idea.
Drain your pan and keep an eye for any water or antifreeze. Drop the pan (pay attention to where the four long bolts go!) and clean any sludge out. Also use your brush and keroene to clean any gunk of the screen at the bottom of the oil pump. Pull the rod and main caps and eyeball the crank journals for any excessive wear. Some wear wont' hurt and you could put them right back, and you'll have an idea of their condition if you later decide you have more work to do.
Put the pan and valve cover back on with new gaskets, and put in five quarts of oil. Change your oil filter and gasket (you may have to dig the old gasket out of the groove in the base -- they have a habit of getting hard, stuck and taking on the appearance of metal -- the groove should be about 3/16" deep with no gasket in it).
It couldn't hurt to have a peek in through the inlet and outlet of the cooling system. (This means more gaskets!). Pull the upper outlet/fan bracket and the lower inlet or water pump. A light and an eyeball will tell you some, but getting a strong stream of water in there will tell you more. There can be sediment the length of the head and the water jacket, but if it's built up, it will tend to be at the rear. A strong jet from a garden hose nozzle is enough. You can use a wide-pattern pressure washer nozzle with the regulator on the pump dialed back and being careful to keep your spray pattern horizontal so as not to blow by the o-rings at the bottoms of the sleeves. See how much mud you get and flush until basically clear.
At that point you can try spinning the motor with the crank (plugs out) and have someone watch the gauage to see if you can raise oil pressure. You can't always spin it fast enough, but its' worth a try.
Also, if the clutch is present on the flywheel, it's be worth removing the cover and making sure the friction disc is free. They have a way of binding to either the pressure plate or the fllywheel if they're left to sit too long.
If you've corrected any problems you find in that going over, it'd be worth mounting and running.
What all of that doesn't address is the smoke. Was the engine ever stuck? The smoke could be from rings broken in getting it free. But it could also be perectly good rings stuck in their grooves that might be loosened up by running it with a dose of a product like Seafoam in the crankcase oil and some more in your fuel. Apart from tearing the motor down completely before putting it in, only time will tell that story.
Anything you know about the history of the motor is more than we know, so it's hard to say just how far to go before installing it. The things I've suggested are pretty basic, and I'm sure I've probably overlooked something that others will fill in.
If you get it in and running and the smoke doesn't clear up then you're probably looking at pulling it back out and doing at least rings and maybe pistons and sleeves, at which point it would be advisable to have the crank miced and turned if needed. But if you don't see any excessive wear or any signs of internal damage from water on the oil side at this stage, I'd put it in and give it a go.
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