Limited experience: My father ran a 5' Bush Hog with an H, and it was really loaded in heavy going (meadow weeds and thick grass). Over the years, I think it did some damage to some of the gears in the PTO train or maybe even in the transmission (never failed, but things began to have that "loose" feeling you can't really describe but can sense if you've driven the same machine for years). Later, a Super M handled that mower with ease. I don't know what the limits are, but as some of the writers here say, "it depends" on what you're cutting. Sharp blades make a BIG difference, too. I do agree about the need for an overrunning clutch. With the tractor in gear, the PTO will drive the tractor forward until the mower loses its momentum. Usually not dangerous, but it could be if you really needed to fetch the tractor up immediately. There is an old trick I used to use with a PTO-driven combine: blip the throttle closed, then knock the transmission into neutral while the pressure is off the gears. It takes practice to get the timing right. Works sometimes, and sometimes it feels as if you're really rubbing a little steel off the gear teeth each time you do it.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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