When I was a dealer mechanic, I fixed many out in the field from the back of a service truck. Never had one fail because of dirt, and I'm kind not the neatest person in the world.
Parts are a very close fit so you don't want dirt in there. A super clean area is not necessary however. You need to use a bit of care. I had to fix many when all I had was some gas or diesel fuel, rags, and some compressed air and all went fine.
The most important metal parts fit with such close tolerances that you can't check for wear with a micrometer. You just eyeball them and look for wear patterns. When a part is worn, it's easily seen.
The majority of the time, even failed pumps need very few parts. When I say "failed" I mean an engine that quits and NOT a pump that seizes. With most, a $15 seal kit and new $8 front bushing is all that's needed. For the full deal (what is often called a "rebuild"), you add a new metering valve ($12), fuel pump blades and liner ($18), and maybe a delivery valve ($12). Very rarely do you find anything else that needs replacing.
If a pump has gotten water in it, or perhaps damage from running waste vegetable oil or thin fuel of some sort, the head & rotor assembly can get worn. For that there is no fix other then a new head & rotor. Didn't used to be worth it when Stanadyne charged as much for it as new pump. But now there are aftermarket head & rotor assemblies that cost around $200.
A worn head & rotor results in a seized pump, or an engine that starts well cold but will not start hot. The latter is very common with military Humvees in Irag that get run in high heat and on thin fuel. Humvees use the same basic Stanadyne pump design that your IH uses.
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