You don't need a starter with a stud. All you need to do is jam the existing starter switch closed somehow.
Cut the wire running from the battery to the existing starter switch and solder on ends to fit the heavy lugs on the solenoid. Mount the solenoid somewhere convenient (under the platform) and make sure it has a good clean place to ground against. Connect the heavy cables to the lugs.
If the tractor has a magneto you have to leave the kill switch alone and use it like always. If it's got a distributor you can replace the ignition switch with the key switch.
There is probably a wire running from the starter switch to the ammeter. You need to relocate this wire to the post on the solenoid that connects to the battery. Otherwise, the lights won't work and the battery won't charge.
Mount the key switch. Run a wire from the alternator side of the ammeter to the +12V post on the key switch. If you have a distributor, you can simply remove the ignition switch and install the key switch in its place, and use the old wire from the ammeter to the ignition switch.
Run a wire from the S(tart) post on the key switch to the S(tart) post on the solenoid.
With a magneto, you're done. Pull out the kill switch, turn the key, and you're off to the races.
With a distributor, connect the wire from the coil to the I(gnition) post on the key switch. Now you're done.
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Today's Featured Article - Maintaining Rubber Tires - by Staff. The broad use of rubber tires on farm tractors and machinery has resulted in a great saving in both time and operating costs since the time of steel wheels. There are, however, certain basic fundamentals in the care of tires that should be followed carefully if the owner is to derive maximum benefit from his or her investment. First and most important is to maintain proper pressure for the work at hand. Your best guide to proper inflation is the operator's manual or instruction book tha
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