A couple more thoughts to add to the previous posts:
A good 12 volt generator will show between about 6 and 12 ohms between the F and the generator case. And it will show a maximum of about a tenth of an ohm between the A and the case.
Before doing a spin test you should first polarize the generator. Ground the genny F terminal to the case then apply 12 volts to the A terminal for an instant. (If the tractor is negative ground connect the battery + to the A. If it's positive ground, connect the battery - to the A.)
Now when you ground the F terminal the spin the armature you should see voltage between the A and the case. Actual voltage will vary with RPM - could go as high as 30 volts or more at noremal operating speed (3,000 RPM). At lower RPMs the voltage will be proportionally less.
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If the rebuilder put in a new bearing on the drive end can almost guarantee it is sealed - the old open bearing is obsolete. Consequently I'd not recommend putting oil into the front oil cup. (The oil will eventually work it's way into the generator innards where it will do no good!)
The commutator end will still have a bushing. A couple drops of oil every so often is still required.
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