Posted by LenNh on November 28, 2009 at 14:20:30 from (71.192.137.159):
In Reply to: Loosening question posted by Mike CA on November 27, 2009 at 16:48:11:
Many, many, many years ago, when my father"s 10-20 was still in use and I was gonna drive it no matter what, I decided to give kerosene a shot to see what it was like. One try was enough. Drain carb if the engine stopped on kerosene.Turn on gas. Start as usual. Raise curtain to near top of radiator. Heat engine until steam comes out the radiator cap (could be done while moving to the job). Turn off gas. Turn on kerosene. Lower curtain, then get to work. As long as the tractor is working, it will stay hot, at least in warm weather. Adjust curtain as needed to keep engine from sputtering. If the tractor idles for a few minutes, it will sputter until it warms up again. To stop tractor, shut off kerosene. In emergency, cut ignition, but then you have to drain the carb unless you start it immediately. A cold engine is not going to start on kerosene. Today, kerosene is hard to find and more expensive than gasoline, so there is absolutely no incentive to use it, as there was in the early days of tractors. People put up with all the nuisance I"ve just described because of the lower price of kerosene, distillate, "tractor fuel," and the like. Kerosene engines have a much lower compression ratio than gasoline engines, because kerosene knocks like crazy with higher compression ratios. I never knew if gasoline used in a low-compression engine produced more power than kerosene, but I suppose somebody, somewhere, must have tested that and reported on it. In any case, I never knew anybody who had a kerosene model who really used kerosene (I"m talking about 10-20, "Regular," F-20, F-12, H, M tractors that I saw in regular use among neighbors and family). Too much trouble, so they all used gasoline.
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