I really like the stuff. It's great on iron or sheet metal to get ahead of flash rust, and provides a good stable surface if something has to sit for a while before you get back to it. Scuff the surface with a little Scotchbrite and wipe down well to get the dust, and it's pretty much ready for priming and painting.
The only other caution (other than keeping it away from concrete) is specific to a part like your manifold. That is to separate the male and female sides of any threads, or of any moving/rotating parts if you can before treating. At the very least, take them apart before treatment or move them periodically an hour or so after the stuff has dried some and keep that up until it is thoroughly dry. It's thin enough that it will find its way into mated threads or moving joints, and the chemical reaction will have the same effect as the rust that causes threads and joints to stick in the first place.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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