Be VERY careful sandblasting a partially intact tractor. Sand will get into every moving joint and create havoc down the road. Heavily mask those areas with thick vinyl tape & avoid blasting those areas. Greasy joints will not allow the sand to blow off afterwards.
Sand blast, blow off carefully with dry air, then prime that day. You have the barest of metal at that point. No need to wash or treat. Just get all traces of dust & sand off. Most primers have a window of finish-coat application, so don't wait for days to apply the top coat. If you don't prime till the following day, once the dew sets in in the evening, expect to see a brown tractor in the morning.
Stay away from the $6/quart "tractor paint". It coverers, but doesn't hold its shine. Can't remember what type of paint I've bought at the local CASE/IHC dealer, or the "restoration" paint bought at Tractor Supply, but both took a special reducer, & not mineral spirits. This stuff stilll looks great over time.
It takes a lot of effort to properly prep & paint a tractor. Don't go cheap on the paint unless you like to paint every few years.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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