I am a big fan of brush painting cast iron with a good paint like centari. Did it on my 10-20 and it looked absolutly fantastic! Sheet metal on the other hand must be sprayed unless you want to do a bunch of wet sanding and buffing. I also didn"t use hardener with the centari for one reason. Hardener makes the paint more prone to chipping. A straight emamel paint will have some flex and give to it like if a chain bumps it. When I painted my 10-20 I just used a dark colored primer. let dry a couple days and then applied the centari with a good quality varnish brush. A cheap brush will only create headaches. I used ONE coat and didn"t go back over ares where the paint was starting to skin over. Makes a mess if you do that. Before I painted my 10-20 I repainted an IH M stationary engine and it looked fantastic also. Might be worth taking the time to also clean up a chunk of junk cast iron to practice on before doing it. The reason I brush painted in the first place is I didn"t have a good place to spray and no compressor or any other equipment to spray. I did all my painting in an open faced pole barn with a dirt floor and it came out looking like it was done in a professional spray booth. If you get gnats in the pain get them out quickly before the paint skins and use a needle or toothpick to flip them out. If you miss one and the paint has skinned, just leave it alone till the paint drys and it will rub off and you can take a tooth pick with a daub of paint on the end to touch up the spot if need be.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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