Mike, heat it up until just before "cherry", ie. it show a little bit of a glow. hit the pivot points with blaster (or whatever penetrant you like). When it stops smoking, start using the brass drift that I referred to in my previous response. Use it inside on the butterfly. work one way with 2-3 blows, then move to the opposite side and go 2-3 blows. I also used a cold chisel as a wedge to start working the butterfly. Take a small cold chisel, and tap it in between the manifold and the butterfly, just don't over do it. drive it in enough to put a modest amount of pressure on the butterfly. then go to the opposite side of the butterfly, and use the brass drift as indicated.
don't be afraid to heat 'er up again, and try the chisel/drift combo while it is still fairly hot. the idea here is to get the rust bond to break. Then start using your penetrant like you have an endless supply as you slowly work the butterfly back and forth using the penetrant to "wash" out the rust.
It took me 2 days to get mine free and working. Patience is key, and even more so, DO NOT overdo the chisel or brass drift. Don't baby it, but don't use a 5 lb mallet either.
If you wish, I would be happy to take a phone call to discuss.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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