That helps pin things down a little more. My first comment you probably already know, but I'll mention it anyway for anyone else reading this. You can only cultivate at one time what you plant at one time. Close cultivation requires very close control of the row spacings. Otherwise you will cultivate one row while removing much of the adjacent row. I will guess that you plant really small plants (carrot is good example) with multiple rows in a bed and some greater separation between the beds. For the sake of argument, you may have 3 Cole planters ganged together to plant 3 rows with 12 inches between them. Then you leave 24 inches before the next set of three rows, giving room to walk/weed/harvest without walking or driving on the next row. (The 3, 12 and 24 are examples and may be any reasonable numbers.) You would want to set your tractor to track at 48 inches and set up a cultivator to do the bed of 3 rows at one time. For this type crop, a tool bar with the appropriate tools would be the easieest to set up. Then when you are ready to cultivate the squash/melon plants, I would expect them to be a single row that is at least 48 inches. So you widen the center row tools as needed and adjust the outer tools to clean the area where the 2 side rows were.
Back to the row crop type cultivation, if you are doing much corn, tomato, or potato; the row crop cultivators would be better for the higher crop clearance. The tool bar type will only give you about 12 inches of clearance. Fine for carrots, severe limitation for corn. You may have to ask yourself if being able to cultivate higher crops makes it worth while to have a second cultivator and do the changing out. If approached the right way, you can minimize the effort to make the change. If you also have to change wheel track, the changing becomes more work. (Then you start thinking about having 2 tractors with different wheel spacings.)
On the 1 vs. 2 row question (Super A vs. C), you need to consider how much doing 2 rows speeds up the cultivation as opposed to how much time it adds to doing set-up. Think of this: say you have an acre of sweet corn set on 36 inch rows. That is a total of 14,520 feet of corn row. A Super A doing first cultivation, crawling along at low idle in first gear, will go about 1 1/3 mph and cover the whole acre in just over 2 hours. A C covering 2 rows at the same speed and would save about an hour. It would require having twice the tooling and how much of that hour would be used on extra set-up time? The time saved would be even less in later passes when you can go faster.
For your operation, I'd stick with a single row tractor, either a Super A/100/130/140 or a Cub. The Super A/100/130/140 would be preferable for several reasons, more power, better hydraulics and more ground speeds. Finding a tool bar type vegetable cultivator will be difficult, for all practical purposes may be impossible. If you can't find one, you may be able to bolt together what you need starting with a row-crop unit. The most important consideration is the condition of the universal mounting frames. For close work, you want as little wear as possible in all the pivot points. Wear translates to tool movement, which you want to avoid. I have been told that Waterman's in Sabattus often has equipment for the small Farmalls. If you are anywhere near them, you might want to see what they have sitting in the back yard.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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