I leave the tank on the tractor, remove the sediment bowl, then use a pressure washer and thoroughly clean the inside best as you can through the filler neck. Check the water coming out the bottom of the 3/8" opening and you can stop when you have little or no sediment coming out and clear water. Let the tank dry out. Generally takes just a day or two here in south Texas. If your in a hurry fill it with gas and add a can of Heet or isopropal alchohol to displace any water. I then intall 3/8" brass nipple,T,nipple,and cap vertically. Horizontally out the other side of the T I install a nipple, 3/8" valve and 3/8" IP x 3/8" barbed adapter then an inline filter to carb. The nipple and cap act as a dirt leg to catch any sediment before it gets to the filter. I left my tractor like that. However after what little sediment is left works it's way out of the system you could install the sediment bowl. I've done this multiple times on different tanks and had good luck with it. I did one with nuts and diesal fuel in the tank and strapped it to another tractor wheel and drove around. It worked great but was a pain in the butt. I also pd the have a shop boil one out and coat it. That's the best way but also expensive.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I’m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I’ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I’ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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