Got it done today. Drained the coolant, approx 3 gallons collected, some got away. Removed the inlet casting and used garden sprayer to flush it out through top and bottom openings. Lots of brown/orange water and some chunks of mud and scale. Flushed both ways for about 30 minutes until water ran clear. Check tempertaure probe while I had it out with a pot of boiling water. Checked out OK (it should, it's new, but probably made in China so I needed to verify). Buttoned it all back up and filled with drained 50/50 mix (it was clean) and added a little more to make up for the displaced sludge and escaped coolant. Cranked it up, waited a few minutes to get warmed up and then ran her up to 3/4 throttle. After 15 minutes no movement on temp gauge. So, to accelerate things, I covered the front of the radiator with a trash bag. 10 minutes later the temperature started to rise a bit (still in cool, but movement is good, means it is working). 10 minutes later it was almost up to "Run" level on the temp gauge so I removed the trash bag. 5 minutes later it was back to below cool. That is one efficient radiator! Ambient temperature was 45 deg. I opted not to run a flush kit through it at this time.
So now I know it is working correctly. It is good to be validated with hard evidence. I suspected it was working fine, but just wanted to be sure. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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