Might add that the W means viscosity is tested at zero degrees F and thus 10W-30 is tested at zero and also at 212 degrees F for the 30 part of the equasion. They don't necessarily start with a 10 weight oil but rather use a pour point depressent to reach their viscosity goal on the low end and use viscosity index improvers to retain viscosity at the high temp. Also, there is a rather wide range that these oil have to fall into . In other words, one 30 wt oil may be at the low end of that scale and another may be at the high end. It is measured by a specified time it takes for a given amount of oil to flow through a particular size orfice at the temperature for that test. Most multi grade oils will be nearer the lower end of that scale and a straight wt will be on the higher end from the tests I have read. You have to read and interpet the specs on the oil container to see if it is acceptable for your particular engine. As has been pointed out on these forums before, a lot of the newer oils are designed to reduce emisions and extend life of catalic converters so they reduced some of the additives that are desirable in a standard push rod type engine. Diesel engine oils still have the additives,(plus other specific to diesels) but can some times cause build up in heavy use gasoline engines thus the desire to use the low ash oils in those.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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