I think John T and the Tractor Vet are on the right track: Issue is a mismatch between the coil and ballast resistor. A couple possibilities:
1 – You actually have an internally ballasted (so-called “12 volt” coil). Running it in series with a ballast resistor will cause weak or no spark condition during cranking. Try measuring the coil primary current with the ignition on and the engine stopped (points closed). A properly sized coil and ballast resistor package should draw 3 – 4 amps. Less than that says either your coil or resistor is wrong.
2 – If it's the resistor try one for a 60’s era Chrysler product (Autozone #AL725 or equivalent – about $7) and see what happens. It has much lower resistance for when cold. After starting it takes a minute or two for it to heat up and develop full resistance. This provides more coil current and a hotter spark during cranking.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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