It is not going to come off without removing the front casting. It is pressed on. It cannot be pulled with a two or three arm puller, it will break the pulley. A plate (1/2" made in a U shape to fit behind the flange will allow a good pull. Most come off with a hydraulic jack and a socket fitting down against the crank snout. The jack pulls on the U shaped plate (above with 5/8 or 3/4" ready rod and double nuts.) If it stays in the frame, a jack that pumps when horizontal is needed, or a Porta-Power. I had to put one in a 60 ton press to get it off, and it was almost 4 ton of pressure on the ram. Before reinstalling, clean everything and polish it up. Inner bore and shaft both need to be shiny. Heat the pulley to ~ 200 degrees then put it on rapidly pulling it in with the threads in the crank. Be sure there is no wear groove in the pulley where the seal rides, or put the new seal in a location that uses a different spot. Always polish the shaft roundy round not along the length to keep from wearing the seal. Put grease on the seal when putting it together to prelube it on the shiny shaft. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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