Okay according to the cub operators manual the right side post on the ammeter as viewed from the back is the battery side (the side wired to the B post of the regulator). The post on the left side is the "Starting switch to ammeter cable". This is how mine is wired. However I did have the wire going to the "battery in" post on the light switch wired to the battery side of the ammeter, so I took your advise and moved it to the non battery side. This is what I get-L no lights ammeter reads 0. H front lights are dim NOW the ammeter remains at 0. D front lights are bright but should be dim and ammeter reads 0. B Front light are bright and back light comes on BUT ammeter still reads 0. The ammeter is the original, do you think all this messing around has damaged the ammeter?
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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