GabeTX said: (quoted from post at 07:12:37 06/15/10) Thank you, Bob. I'll ask him if he's pulled the plugs or do it myself if I can talk him down on the price and end up going to look at it. I want a long project so having to do a rebuild wouldn't bother me but paying too much on the initial purchase certainly would. :)
I think the guy is saying it's a Super H based on the serial number and the battery being on a box under the seat (I can see this in the picture). He also mentioned it had "all Y and Z codes" although I'm not sure exactly what that means. I'll double-check the serial number when I get there and also look for the things you mentioned.
W, X and Y codes are the code numbers placed at the end of the serial number to indicate which options the tractor came with from the factory, or in the case of in the case of W2, X2 or Y2, it indicates that the tractor was sent back to the dealer at some time in the past to be modified from its original configuration, (like in converting a fuel tractor to gasoline, adding a high altitude piston set or perhaps a hi-speed reverse gear). There are no Z codes on the letter series tractor's serial numbers. The letter will also tell you what the tractor is, as the W codes were used on Wheatland tractors, such as the W-4, the X codes were for Farmalls, and the Y codes were for Industrials.
The Stage 2 Super H's main upgrade over the Stage 1 was the addition of live hydraulics, driven by a pump located between the distributor and the ignition drive housing, also, the distributor should be an upright one, not a horizontal one. This change also meant a new ignition drive gear, timing gear and front cover, as all were beefed up to handle the added stresses placed on the system by the pump. The hydraulic fluid tank should be under the gas tank. which is the reason the battery was moved to under the seat ala the Super C. All Super H's also had four inch longer axles than regular H's, thus giving an increase of eight inches over the adjustment range. Another thing to look at is the starter location, it should be on the left side as viewed from the driver's seat, where as the H had it on the right. On the carb, the choke lever will be on the engine side of the carb if it is the correct one. though, like most of these changes, that too can be faked with enough time and effort, but in the case of a junker, are not usually worth the trouble since the return will be so small.
Check all the casting codes on the major pieces to make sure they match, not the specific dates, which will vary, but the year codes, which for a Stage 2 should be Y or Z, which, now that I think of it, may be what he meant by Y and Z codes. If the rest of the casting date shows anything past October, the Y and Z codes may be mixed on the same tractor, but all should be within about 6 months of each other. You will find them on the axle housings, the front and rear casters (wheel hubs), the rear frame (tranny), the clutch housing/torque tube, front frame and front spindle. As for the missing sheet metal, any H metal will fit, but you will either have to find an original gas hood, (not too easy), or have the extra tank filler hole welded up in one from a fuel tractor, (even harder to do right without warping or shrinking the hood's metal, so pay someone happily who knows very well how to do this, like a professional bodywork man).
If you have pictures, post them here and I'll look them over for you, and yes, if it truly is a Stage 2, which started production in 1953, it is worth the money.
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