There are an assortment of issues here: It was not 12v from the factory, so it isn't "stock" but that is OK. One polarizes the generator by jumping Bat to Gen on the regulator. (the VR is not polarized by jumping it might have polarity if it has solid state parts in it, and some new VRs do, but it is usually able to charge either polarity. The charge rate is a little high at 16v but two other things are important. The use of a DMM is frequently impossible on these unless you pay for a Fluke meter or equal. THe sample rate of the meter grabs information on a noisy (irregular to beat the band) voltage source, and will not average the spikes or valleys it encounters. An analog meter with a needle is usually the much more accurate answer. A bad Vr would cause a bat to drain, but it would also heat up wires and heat the generator, if it did. Thus the drain is either a light that is on, the ignition switch is not turning off all the way, or (most likely) the battery has a bad cell in it. I would check the battery first. It is easy, charge it up with one terminal disconnected from the tractor, then let it sit for a few days and measure the voltage. The DMM will work here! If it is less than 12v, and will not start the tractor,, it is bad. I think the charging system may be OK. Good luck, Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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