I'm with Teddy up to a point. That rod that you're having to hold is normally adjusted so that it doesn't float as it's doing to you. Any adjustment to it during normal running with normal rare would me small and very infrequent. If it went out of adjustment that radically and did it quickly, likely it's the thrust bearing in the governor or the spring in the spindle it surrounds.
That said, if somebody replaced the carb and didn't know about adjusting that rod, they might have just parked it not knowing what to do.
Adjustment is fairly straightforward. With the motor off, move the throttle lever at the seat to wide open, full speed. The front end of the rod in question has a clevis adjustment to connect it to the governor arm. Pull the pin and remove the clevis from the governor arm. Adjust the clevis some toward the end of the rod, so that you're lengthening the whole affair. Hold the governor arm toward the rear to the point that you feel just a bit of spring tension. Then while pushing the rod as far to the rear as it will go, adjust the clevis so that it lines up allowing you to reinsert the pin.
If that doesn't give you normal operation, then the governor is definitely suspect.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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