Rusty, I've never hauled my M anywhere but the person I purchased it from delivered it to the farm. He used exactly what you are mentioning (2) short pieces of chain with a forged chain hook on the end to which he connected to the tie down chains. He used a bolt and washer where the chains were secured to the bolster. He told me he had been in over 20 states with the tractor at shows or tractor rides and never had a towing issue. He also suggested letting about half or more of the tire pressure out when towing to minimize any bouncing. My question is I haul my Super C (which is not near the weight of a M) and I've been tieing it down using a clevis in the drawbar and the front hitch plate. I then run the tie down chain through the clevis and secure with chain rachets all of which is far over rated in strength to the tractor weight. I don't know how the drawbar and front hitch plate would be rated but think it would be fine. I would certainly appreciate your comments on this method of tieing the tractor down. Thanks for sharing from your experiences and knowledge, Hal.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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