Grinding the valves on either end wont help in this instance. The extra length is actually in the stem. According to caseih, the valves I ordered and received match the serial number to the engine. They however do not match the valves that came out of the engine. My only concern is valve seating pressure at higher RPM. I am assuming that other people are rebuilding engines with the same valves and springs. I just hope there are not other parts that might contribute to unforseen issues.
I will check things out well before starting... Thanks for your advice.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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