I don't know what you are seeing on the fuel adjustment screw, but unless someone has already modified it somehow, there is no difference between the distillate/kerosene carbs and the gasoline carb. There may be some difference in the main metering nozzle, but again, it may have already been modified. Some folks do try to improve the performance by drilling out those holes, but usually all that is accomplished is to create an over-rich condition. The exception to that would be IF the tractor has the M&W engine kit in it, and the carburetor has been rebuilt with the M&W high performance kit, then the holes in the metering nozzle ARE bigger. There is no point in rebuilding the carb with a kit for the 47387 carb since you most likely will be running it on gasoline anyhow, so use the kit for the 50983. It will fit your carb. Chances are good that is what is in there now.
There is a part number on the head, but it is under the valve cover. That number will tell you if you have the high compression gasoline head, or the low compression distillate/kerosene head.
The serial number of the tractor will have the suffix "X1" if it was originally a gasoline tractor, "X3" (I think) for kerosene, and no suffix for distillate.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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