I don't know what you are seeing on the fuel adjustment screw, but unless someone has already modified it somehow, there is no difference between the distillate/kerosene carbs and the gasoline carb. There may be some difference in the main metering nozzle, but again, it may have already been modified. Some folks do try to improve the performance by drilling out those holes, but usually all that is accomplished is to create an over-rich condition. The exception to that would be IF the tractor has the M&W engine kit in it, and the carburetor has been rebuilt with the M&W high performance kit, then the holes in the metering nozzle ARE bigger. There is no point in rebuilding the carb with a kit for the 47387 carb since you most likely will be running it on gasoline anyhow, so use the kit for the 50983. It will fit your carb. Chances are good that is what is in there now.
There is a part number on the head, but it is under the valve cover. That number will tell you if you have the high compression gasoline head, or the low compression distillate/kerosene head.
The serial number of the tractor will have the suffix "X1" if it was originally a gasoline tractor, "X3" (I think) for kerosene, and no suffix for distillate.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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