Definitely drain out calcium fluid. Remove tire/tube, bring it to the right place unless you have a lot of experience with this. For me it was $20 well spent vs hours of battling with it.
Anyhow, what you may find is the inside of the rim is rusted real bad, I mean real bad. Not just rusty, but chunky, flaky rusty. That will need to be ground / wire wheeled so it"s reasonably smooth, doesn"t have to be perfect like new, but you don"t want any rough edges rubbing against your tube. Depending upon condition of metal around hole it could be real difficult to weld, will have to be ground down to get all the chunky rust out. Then if what"s left is paper thin metal on the rim could end up burning holes through it when trying to weld. A professional welder would probably have better luck, but even could be a challenge for them.
The net of all that, is if it"s in really bad shape inside. Do the wire wheel clean up and fiberglass. I recently did one, had some left over woven fiber glass cloth and 1/2 gal of epoxy. Put one layer down with epoxy, let cure, put another layer at a 45 degree angle. Clean with soap, Windex etc and scuff up inbetween coats and painting. If the hole is 1" diam, do a 4~6" section of overlap. Sand down any rough edges, paint and remount. If it"s leaking you"ll probably need a new tube unless you can definitely patch the leak, otherwise you"ll be doing it all over again.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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