I'm with Wilks. For a shop (or a painter) with lots of painting going on all the time, supplied air is the way to go.
For small occasional jobs (like a tractor) I've relied on the 3M half masks with replaceable cartridges. Some would argue the point (they know who they are) but I don't think I've lost any brain cells to my occasional tractor painting. ;8^)
The keys are 1) a supply of cartridges suitable for the materials and 2) a good fit on the mask (i.e., Wilks's suction test).
They're available at most NAPAs. As for durability . . . when I painted the BN, I changed out the filters for about every 4-6 hours of actually being enclosed and shooting paint, well before the outer fiber filter showed any sign of being clogged or covered over. The stuff that can hurt you isn't visible, but it is in direct proportion to the amount of paint.
As for fit and anything leaking around, a good shave IS important, and I can say that (after checking for FIT and SEAL -- EVERY time I put it on) I've never had so much as a whiff of paint while wearing it. My painting coveralls, on the other hand, would reek, when I stepped outside the shop between coats. A month after being painted, the tractor smelled more like new paint than anything I ever/never detected while wearing the filter mask.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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