The wheel hub is called Wedge-lok if you have a single 12pt cap screw per wheel parallel to axle, the heavy u-plates were the tools sent by IH to push or pull the wedges, I used to set up new tractors & if I recall they sent 2 u-plates, 2 long bolts, 2 spacers, with the new tractor, 1 12pt short socket wrench, 1 3-4' cheater pipe, trick was gettings them loose without damaging wheel hub, wedges, 1 wedge has 12pt bolt welded in, heating the hub was ok, scorched the paint tho, sometimes wedges were so tight we blew them out with cutting torch, then getting them back tight & staying tight was next, hammering with sledge was ok but not end of axle, end thrust would crack Timken inner axle bearings. It was HD according to IH but SOB in field for service.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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