Ive always heard a full tank is best as such reduces internal condensation plus theres liquid versus air against the tanks inner surface to reduce rust/oxidation.....
I also use Sta Bil ..............
I also mix a small quantity of low ash 2 Cycle Outboard Motor Oil in my gas and Sta Bil as I believe it can leave a light film of oil residue which can reduce corrosion/oxidation (carb and tank etc)......
I run the tractors a while so the gas and Sta Bil and 2 Cycle Oil gets mixed and fills the carb but then I turn off the gas and let them die of starvation ......
I change oil before putting them to bed cuz I dont want the old oil and acids on the bearing surfaces all winter.
Batteries kept charged with a battery minder etc.
Its good to remove plugs n squirt oil down in the cylinders to keep walls n rings oil coated to reduce rust
If its a Mag I leave it where it just snapped so points are open
Of course I dont like tires sittin on earth DUH and I air them good so they dont set all winter with any creases.
For the past 4 years after Ive done all that my hand start JD B has started the first or second pull in the spring
Im sure theres MORE TIPS I forgot but the other fine gents will add to this
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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