You have three problems, none of them critical, but combined will cause the symptoms you are having. The O-ring seal between the center section and the rear frame is leaking air into the hydraulic system suction side. It is located above the normal oil level in the transmission so it will leak air in rather than oil. Quick fix is to run the oil level about 5 or 6 gallons over full. That puts the oil level above the leaking O-ring so it will now draw in oil rather than air.
This problem is made worse by a worn MCV pump. A new pump is somewhat forgiving oh having to pump air but a worn one does a poor job causing the loss of hydraulics for the steering and controls.
The third problem is the sprag clutch is worn out in the low side of the TA. It most likely already slips under load. Without any hydraulic pressure to engage clutch packs in the TA all you are left with is the mechanical side of the low side clutch. Since it is worn out the tractor does not move when there is no hydraulic pressure.
First try adding the extra oil. If that is not enough to get you going, this is how you can bleed the air from the system. Remove the small plug on the back side of the MCV assembly. It is the one with the 5/8 inch head. Start the tractor and be ready to shut it off when oil shoots out. If you get no oil with the tractor idling you can apply some air pressure to the oil fill tube to assist in the bleeding.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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