Another idea, related to fuel. Where you've had the carb off and been painting, too. Check out the gasket between the carb and manifold, and that they are torqued god'n'snug together. Same with manifold-to-head if you had that apart.
An air leak in any of those joints could make for the problem you're having. An easy test (Okay, not so easy if you're cranking by hand, but . . . call it part of the charm of the old darling) once yu're sure the ignition is squared away, is to crank while spraying a combustible around the joints mentioned. If it fires to run it means it is taking on fuel from a leak in that intake joint, which robs your carb of the vacuum it needs to do its job.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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