The diagram above will do the trick. There are two gray wires going to switches (bottom right of illustration) these are for the three wire normal 10SI Delco or Hitachi. If you ignore these exciter wires because your one wire does not need them, you will see that the remaining fat black wires from the Alt to the gauge, and from gauge to starter switch, Plus the one gray wire to the lights, are all you need. I recommend a fuse link be placed in the wire where it attaches to the starter switch. (starter switches can be as shown, or a square push button, or a rod activated push button, or changed by an owner to almost anything. If you find the big positive wire from the battery, it will be attached on its other end to the starter switch no matter what it looks like. This is where you should attach the wire to the fuse link. This prevents a failed alternator from starting a fire. The fuse link (NAPA has them) should be about 10% higher rated than the alternator output.
There is no connection to anything on your mag at all. Voltage is never supplied to it for any reason. It is grounded to stop the tractor.
If the wiring harness you have purchased has smaller wires running from the electrical box to the alternator, ignore them, or tape them up.
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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