Youre doin better then me, Ive been hooking them up 50 + years BUT DO NOT HAVE 20/20 VISION (dern bi focals lol)
I dont want anyone to get hurt so with all due respect would like to comment on your statement just in case some here may be "corn" fused..I'm sure you know what youre talking about, I'm just worried some here may be confused by the wording of your posting........
Your post.
"Think about POLARITY never hook up a neg ground system to a pos ground system by hooking pos to pos and neg to neg always hook ground to ground and hot to hot"
My comments.
1) When hooking up a battery charger to a tractor or one battery to another, THE CORRECT "POLARITY" (with respect to the + and - BATTERY posts) IS ALWAYS POS TO POS AND NEG TO NEG.....REGARDLESS WHICH BATTERY POST HAPPENS TO BE ATATCHED TO SOME HUGE HUNK OF OLD RUSTY IRON.
2) Its a fairly common practice to use a Neg grounded truck etc. to jump start a Pos grounded tractor (done that 50 + years although lost my 20/20 grrrr). And the No 1 rule above MUST STILL BE ADHERED TO. Pos to Pos and Neg to Neg (relative to battery posts) REGARDLESS which battery post on EITHER vehicle is attached to the huge hunk of iron.
3) THEREFORE lets say the tractor is Pos ground while the truck is Neg ground (the majority of old tractors being jumped from your trusty pickup), how do you hook it up ????? ANSWER::::: POS TO POS AND NEG TO NEG.
4) All one has to do is apply the common sense you spoke of and remember on the old Pos grounded tractor THE TRACTORS POS BATTERYS POST IS WHATS ATATCHED TO THE TRACTORS IRON FRAME while the tractor batterys Neg post is whats wired to the starter switch or solenoid..... Soooooooooooo one would first attach the black negative jumper cable (the one attached to truck batterys - post) to the starter post or the starter side (NOT to battery) of the starter switch or solenoid........Then quicky and hard momentarily jump the red Pos jumper cable (one attached to truck batterys + post) to the tractors iron frame somewhere close to the starter NOT anywhere near the battery !!!!!!!!
5) DO NOT LET THE TRUCK AND TRACTOR COME IN CONTACT WITH EACH OTHER
NOTE in theory and if all is well and correct, this way youre not actually ever hooking the batterys together (even safer) because the tractors switch or solenoid is open so youre ONLY jumping the starter motor Yayyyyyyyyyy
The method above should cause the tractors starter to crank so as long as the tractor ignition is on and its battery has enough energy to power up the ignition (unless if a mag nones required) she ought to start AND THIS IS RELATIVELY SAFE, MUCH SAFER THEN JUMPING A 12 VOLT BATTERY TO A 6 VOLT BATTERY WHICH IS VERY VERY WICKED AND DANGEROUS ......This way your ONLY powering the tractors starter NOT its 6 volt battery (provided the tractors switch/solenoid isnt closed)
Again, this is NOT to argue and Im sure you know what you meant, its just Im afraid some here (with no electricl background) may get confused by your wording
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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