Hi Brett, the last 3 clutches that I installed in a 74/84 series tractor were re-manufactured clutches and pressure plates sold by CaseIH at a very competitive $$ and they had a core exchange as well. The most expensive part per pound was the clutch release bearing at $60. I always use the HD pressure plate and 6 pad clutches. You should check the flywheel and possibly have it ground to spec. If you have the flywheel off, re-torque the cap screws on the rear main crank seal. To remove the pilot bearing, I have a carriage bolt with a head that just fits through the shaft hole and the lip on the head catches enough of the bearing to extract it. Others on this forum have suggested that filling the cavity behind the bearing with grease and then driving a shaft into the grease will push the bearing out. On re-assembly, I place pressure plate and clutch on PTO and transmission shafts and put tractor almost back together but leaving enough of a gap that a long screw driver can be engaged in the ring gear and using one of the bolts in the casting as a pry point, I use the screw driver to rotate the engine to install the pressure plate bolts through the clutch inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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