Possible, yes,likely no. Jack it up, loosen wedge bolt until it starts to force against wedges trying to push them apart. Then turn wheel so key side of axle is down. Strike top of axle at the end with like a four pound hammer. Use lots of penetrating oil. Keep trying to turn bolt and wack it again. If you are lucky the outer wedge will come out, and then you can take a large heavy bar and with a large or larger hammer drive inner wedge out of wheel. If the inner wedge is the one that comes loose first it is really difficult to get enough pop to drive that outside one out. Oh, after one wedge comes loose turn wheel again so wedge is on bottom. That wack on the axle is what will get it's attention though. Before we had the good horse shoe removal tool the wedges were a real problem. All the earliest tractors came with was a pair of large headed pins to hook each end of wedge.Didn't work well. Also, when tightening them, lots of anti sieze and again use the tap on axle to seat wedge, no point in over torquing them as that will only damage threads.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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