Most Dealers probably didn't have torque wrenches when these were built.
Only one big nut on the flywheel of the 20, bigger than the one on the front of the crank. Tighten as tight as possible and then bend the locking washer to lock it. This sets the position of the rear crank bearing, then tighten the front nut on the crank and your set. The front bearing can move fore and aft in its holder the rear is held by a lip. Rod torque is kinda difficult with castle nuts that are secured with cotter pins. You will have to torque and then check if the cotter lines up, if not then tighten more to line up the next slot. There is no torque for the mains, they are ball bearings in cages held together in alignment by the big nuts on the crank and flywheel.
This post was edited by 36F30 at 15:22:54 11/17/10.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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