Dell, Fitting ax handles is a lost art in our throw away world, so I commend your principles. Your new handle should not fit all the way through the head to begin with, ideally. And, it will require some fitting. Clean the inside of the head. Burn a splinter of soft wood to make some soot. When it cools rub the soot on your finger and rub it inside the head. Now start the head on the maul. It would be best if it goes half way on, or so. Remove the handle, observe the soot transferred to the handle. Carefully file or sand the sooty spots. Place the head on the handle again, remove and carefully file or sand again. Keep doing that until the handle is almost to the top, where you judge a few good whacks of the butt on the anvil would make it flush. When satisfied, clean the soot out of the maul head. Slam the butt of the handle on the anvil. Here's where the "art" comes in to play. You want the handle to come flush WITHOUT splintering the wood at the underside of the head. If that happens to excess, the handle will tend to split there after prolonged use. Chances are, you won't get it perfect, so if the handle comes through the head, so be it. You do not want the head to be sloppy loose, and you do not want to start splitting the handle below the head. Cut it off and drive your wedge. Previously, I mentioned I don't use the metal wedge when I use resorcinol. Most use them, driving them 90 degrees to the wooden wedge. Do your best, if you don't fair well, get another handle. When you are selecting a handle study the grain well, experience will serve you well, just like splitting logs. Best Regards, Charlie
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
