Al, thanks for sharing as that type makes sense as far as hooking up. Unlike fast hitch implements which have the prongs set at a specific spacing (28" + or - 1/4" or so) 3 point implements don't seem to have that tight of control on their spacing. Those 3 point arms you kindly shared in your photo would need some type of constant spacing between the hook-up lower pins to work. I guess that piece on the top of the prongs slides back over the pin once raised to lock onto the implement. Some of those 3 point implements are just torture to have to fight with to hook-up to the tractor and like my disc mower I just leave it on the tractor for the hay season as it's no pleasure either and it's easier then a lot of equipment. A smooth level concrete surface is certainly a big help too. Back in the early 1950's when the Ford N series tractors were common they couldn't handle anything which couldn't be moved around fairly easily by one person and guess the usage on those smaller tractors is what led to the wide acceptance of the 3 point system. It's a problem when using the later big heavy stuff which reguires some real muscle to move around. Thanks again and I didn't mean to start s rant, Hal.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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