BC, if you want my unfettered opinion, it is this. FarmallHal's story is close to what I am going to tell you.
Old timer taught me to start a tractor this way, and BTW, it is with the hand crank.
Turn fuel on, and make sure ignition is off. Choke on full and throttle full. Turn the engine over 2 complete revolutions. Back choke off to 2/3's, throttle to 1/3, and ignition ON. Short, quick upstroke starting at the 04:00 position. If your ignition components are good, it will fire on the first pull (and if it is really cold out, you may still need full choke). BTW, this works well for MAG or BATTERY ignition.
Now, if you are trying to start an M, SM, or similar, cranking is a chore. I agree with John, not sure that connecting the battery charger directly to the coil is best. My first reaction is, that if you have a full charge on the battery, AND all the connections are clean, AND you have the right weight oil in the old girl, she should start. I have started a SM by hand cranking it with the battery charger on the battery (actually, if the battery is low or dead, I have started a number of tractors this way). If you are doing things right, the tractor starts in 1/4 of a revolution (or at least fires once). One of the misconceptions about crank starting an engine is that you spin it over like a starter motor.............that is where all the horror stories of broken arms, broken teeth, and worse come from.
Bottom line to all who are interested. 12v is more forgiving on sub-standard condition ignition components.....but even with 12v, if you have burnt or dirty points, a bad condenser, fuel delivery problems, dirty electrical connections or spark plugs with an .080+ gap, you aint' gonna start it my friend........unless you pull it around, and even then it will be a crap shoot.
If people are looking for the easy way out so they don't have to maintain their ignition or fuel systems, then I have absolutely nothing to offer, because a 12v system will fail just as a 6v system will...........just a little further down the "bad maintenance" road.
Lastly the gentleman that made the point of parts availability and cost, I also agree with him (12v components are more easy to find). I happen to know how to repair and maintain a points based ignition, and I have fun making these old girls run as they came from the factory. Notice I said FUN. I am not a member of the "CORRECT" police, however, I do chose to be correct as a personal choice, not a mandate for the rest of the world to be judged by.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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